I have a favorite saying – if you don't know where to go on a trip, choose Italy.
You can't go wrong, no matter which region of this country you decide to visit. There will surely be picturesque cities, historical landmarks, masterpieces of art, beautiful views, delicious cuisine, and exquisite wines. Therefore, while planning my next journey, I immediately remembered that there is now a direct flight from Almaty to Milan. And that’s fantastic – to arrive in the heart of Europe without any layovers, from where you can venture anywhere else. Fortunately, there are affordable flights, a well-developed railway network, and car rental services (though the latter isn't for me – I prefer public transport, especially since many interesting places have issues with access and parking). I chose a route from Milan to the Ligurian coast, specifically its eastern part.
The City of the White Cathedral
But first, of course, it's worth spending at least three days in Milan, one of the most popular cities in the world. The last time I was here was in May 2016. But back then, there was quite a specific reason for my visit – the UEFA Champions League final between two Madrid clubs, Real Madrid and Atletico, at the famous San Siro stadium. The royal club won after a penalty shootout following a 1:1 draw in regular time. Those three days in Milan were predominantly filled with football, its atmosphere, and the backdrop, including singing along with other fans, a pre-match concert at the Duomo square showcasing the Champions Cup, the match itself, and more. Although I did manage to see a few things back then. This time, however, I approached my acquaintance with the city more thoughtfully.
Malpensa International Airport is located 45 km from Milan, and the journey to the city from there takes about an hour, no matter which means of transport you choose – shuttle, regular bus, train, or taxi. In any case, you'll travel quickly and without issues.
When selecting accommodation in a big city that I choose as one of my "bases" during my travels, I prefer either to stay close to the train station (not too close, but just far enough to avoid that typical station ambiance) – if I plan to make radial trips or if I'm going to travel further soon, or in the old town – to walk to most attractions and better feel the atmosphere. Moreover, these areas usually have a metro station, which also makes getting around easier.
Once settled, my wife and I decided not to fall into the slippery path of "let's unpack our suitcases, take a bath, and then think about what to do," as there was a clear danger that everything would end with sleep, twilight, and subsequent regret. Instead, we put our feet to the ground – and off we went.
I've heard the opinion that Milan (Latin: Mediolanum – in the center of the plain) does not resemble other Italian cities and even resembles Germany more. In some ways, I might agree. Here, there is almost none of the picturesque dilapidation typical of Italy, traces of ancient villas and ruins, or idyllic pastoral surroundings. It is a dynamic business city with many boutiques (it’s evident that it’s one of the world’s fashion capitals), business centers, and only a small, relatively old part. It’s surprising, considering it was founded in 600 BC.
Likely, Milan's current appearance is significantly connected to the fact that during World War II, it underwent massive bombings as an important command center of the Axis army. In the post-war years, the second-largest city in Italy and the administrative center of the largest region, Lombardy, was restored. Today, Milan holds the status of the financial, economic, and scientific capital of the country, forming a powerful industrial triangle with Turin and Genoa.
Like almost all tourists, our first stop was to see the famous Milan Cathedral in the main square, Duomo. I was once again convinced: the cathedral makes a stunning impression – it has a certain lightness and airiness, like an exquisite cake made of white chocolate. It’s no wonder it took about 500 years to build, starting in 1386. The light from the structure emanates because it's made of marble, not fired brick, which was the norm at the time. The marble was sourced from Lake Maggiore, transported through specially dug canals. (Back then, Milan was even compared to Venice, which you certainly can't say now.) The owner of that land, Duke Gian Galeazzo Visconti, generously donated the marble for this holy purpose. The rest of the funds were collected from all the townspeople, for which a real PR campaign was launched. Virgins in white robes went around the neighborhoods collecting donations. The main argument was not the promise of heavenly rewards, but rather... the prospect of outshining Rome and Florence with the new temple. Sounds familiar, doesn’t it?
Naturally, the cathedral has its own relics. The main one is a nail raised to the ceiling, one of those used for Christ's crucifixion. For the uninitiated, the sculptures make the biggest impression – a group featuring Saint Mary and angels, as well as the statue of Saint Bartholomew, the patron saint of fishermen, wrapped in his own skin, as if in a toga. The tomb of the Medici and the baptismal font made from an Egyptian porphyry bathtub from the 4th century are also interesting. The stained glass windows are beautiful.
I remember that during my previous visit while inspecting the cathedral, I had a mishap. When I finally decided to climb to the roof, bought a ticket at the box office, and started to walk around the building to reach the special entrance, a heavy downpour suddenly broke out. The roof of the cathedral, besides 135 spires, 3.4 thousand statues, and over 1 thousand bas-reliefs, is adorned with gargoyles, which serve as water spouts according to Gothic canons. So, when you climb the steps during the rain, there's always a risk that a gutter will overflow and a hefty portion of water will come crashing down on your head. I experienced this firsthand – fortunately, my umbrella partially protected me from a thorough soaking. Still, I stoically made it to the roof, which I did not regret at all, as I took a detailed look at the architectural delights and enjoyed the view of the city and the lightning. Without the interference of numerous couples embracing, who, in good weather, crowd the roof like pigeons in the square.
This time, we refrained from climbing: we were too tired from the journey. Since the cathedral took quite a long time to build, it features elements of both late Gothic style, as well as Renaissance and Baroque. Like any eclectic creation, it receives enthusiastic epithets from ordinary visitors and critical remarks from style purists in architectural circles. Personally, I don't understand the grumbling of the latter. The cathedral is beautiful and rightfully serves as a symbol and the main attraction of Milan.
We strolled around the square, which is flanked by two palaces – the Northern and Southern, as well as the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II – once the largest shopping arcade in the city and still the most beautiful, with its ornate arched ceilings. Here you can find all the famous luxury brands, although most tourists simply stroll around and gaze. I saw similar arcades in Brussels and Lisbon. In the square, there is an equestrian statue of the unifier of Italy, which, upon closer inspection, appears to be leaning toward the gallery bearing his name.
Suddenly, we realized that we were quite tired. We ascended to the terrace of the famous restaurant Giacomo overlooking the square and had a cold Aperol spritz with antipasti. In Italy, there's a tradition of aperitivo from around four to six in the afternoon. It's not just about sitting with a glass of wine or a cocktail. When you come for aperitivo, the waiter automatically brings you a plate of snacks of varying sophistication, depending on the level of the establishment. This could be just a simple cheese and cold cuts platter with olives and bread, or it could be a three-tiered stand with cream puffs filled with all sorts of spreads, seafood, and more, as in Giacomo.
After satisfying our appetites, we returned to our apartment on one of the colorful trams – they have a museum-like look in Milan, with different models and colors (I regretted again that there are no trams in Almaty anymore). We bought some cheese, olives, artichokes, prosciutto, and wine nearby, as we understood that we wouldn't have the strength to go out for dinner. In the evening, we blissfully sat on the balcony after our long-awaited water procedures, inhaling the Milanese air and snacking...
Rulers, Saints, and Geniuses
Breakfasts in Italy may seem unusual to our tourists. No scrambled eggs or omelets with bacon. Here, it's customary to have cappuccino (coffee in Italy is invariably excellent, possibly the best in Europe